The cheapest high amp one on sale. You need at least 800 CCA. So many labels and only a few people actually making them as nearly all are rebranded. My 2000 GTS just got the 3rd battery including original installed, but barring that it seems nearly every Viper besides that eats batteries.

 

It's a battery. Don't overthink it.


I put an Interstate in my GTS. Starts every time.

 

interstate here. no issues here.

 

I like a non-vented, non liquid filled battery since it's out of sight in the back...to avoid corrosion of the battery tray.

I have an Optima Red Top and it has been flawless, despite some internet chatter.
DieHard Platinum is a nice battery too... made by Odyssey.

Whatever you get, make sure it's shelf voltage is at least 12.6 before buying. Keep it on a battery "tender" for increased longevity.

 

Interstate here too. No issues. No corrosion.

 

Wal-mart MAXX. There is a Wal-mart everywhere. The one I have is almost 4 years old. Still good.

 

The conception that because there are few manufacturers and many brands of batteries, that there are in reality very little variation from brand to brand, could not be more wrong.

Plants that make things - ANYTHING - can make things of identical function yet with drastically different specifications. The composition and morphology of the electrodes, the insulator and separator design, the electrolyte package and so on, can all be varied at a plant producing a very different product from the same line.

That being said, I'm not as impressed with Interstate as I used to be. Been through a few of them lately in the GTS. I use AutoZone Duralast in the Super Duty and if they spec one for the Viper it will be my next one.

By the way, I design and build electrochemical production systems for a living. You don't want to start a battery technology argument with me :lol:

 

By the way, I design and build electrochemical production systems for a living. You don't want to start a battery technology argument with me :lol:

Fair enough.

The interstate in my Viper is going on year 5 now. The interstate in my daily driver is on Year 7 and it's probably time to swap that one out. I can only base my recommendation on my experience with these. So far so good. Beyond that I couldn't tell you wtf is in these batteries. They start my cars and that's all I care to know.

But if Dave builds a better battery then I'd buy it.

 

you don't know shit Dave. my brothers best friend works for ever start and he said all batteries are made by jesus juice!

PS don't buy a neverstart (ever start) they suck

 

Jesus juice is what they put in cheap tequila

 

Batteries are electrochemical in nature, but not the type of electrochemistry I deal with. We apply huge amounts of DC power to the cells to cause a chemical reaction whereas in a battery the chemical reaction causes electricity.

However, back to don't argue battery technology with me, they are sister processes to each other, batteries and what I do. Plus, I have a lab full of electrochemists to consult with if it gets too thick here at the forum

My point was more so to emphasize that brand to brand they do want to be better than each other by being made differently, and that the technical crap I speak I didn't just read on the internet. I am smart on this subject.

 

I use the Duralast Gold from Autozone in my truck and in my Viper. It has a good rep and a good warranty policy.

I also use Optima and have had no issues; but, their reputation has gone south, per a multitude of internet posts; so, I wouldn't suggest them anymore.

The Sears DieHard Platinum AGM battery has an excellent rep, if you don't want a flooded cell type battery.

 

7 year old Walmart here (and going strong) and I know squat about batteries except that they supply voltage / current and don't stick your tongue on the positive and negative posts.

 

...don't stick your tongue on the positive and negative posts.

I bet date night at your house is electric.

 

I haven a superstart? I got it at orielly auto parts. Its was cheap and has just over 1k cca. And it has a 2 year warranty which is great cause they start to die at about 1.5 cause of the weather out here. But its the last battery ill ever have to buy. Both my cars have them actually. Id buy again for sure. Better than the redtop I had in it

 

You are so negative.

 

I'm shocked by this current event.

 

I've always had good luck with DieHard. I have an Interstate in my truck that has been good. I've wasted money on two or three Optimas.

 

Put a redtop in mine in 2004, 10 years later still starts no problem. I always keep it on a tender when not using it, and drive about 4k a year. However same as others have said it looks as if their rep has gone down hill over the last 5+ years, just from reading the stuff online id probably replace mine with an interstate or sears die hard etc..I agree with the others...don't over think it.

 

If you've ever had a battery explode on you then you will never buy a wet cell again. I have Optima red tops in the fast cars, two yellow tops in my Ram Cummins, and an Interstate in the Bimmer. They all work flawlessly but the true test is the yellow tops starting the Cummins in single digit temps without skipping a beat. Again, to hell with wet cell batteries.

 

^^^^^^^ yuuuup

 

if you care about dropping any unsprung weight i have been running an Odessey P980 for over 2 years now...its only 25 lbs and cranks my raised compression gen 3 over just as fast as my 48lb yellowtop optima did...plus you can mount them anywhere you want and turn it sideways or upside down....it doesn't matter like a lead acid battery does.

Just a side note....i was able to crank over my motor with a Hawker P680 which checks in at 15lbs when the weather was warm and ran it in the summer for a while. I do feel it was a little undersized....but neverless it did fire up.....so for a track option in the summer you could drop nearly 35lbs for a track day if needed off the rear of the car. Thats alot of unsprung weight. my stock battery was 40lbs.

 

Bitter cold winter here and my car has been in the garage since October. My Interstate fired the car right up last Saturday. No battery tender.

 

Hawker P680 which checks in at 15lbs when the weather was warm and ran it in the summer for a while...so for a track option in the summer you could drop nearly 35lbs for a track day if needed off the rear of the car. Thats alot of unsprung weight.

I believe The battery would be sprung weight... but I agree with your thinking. Great place to shed some pounds especially on the track car.

 

Unsprung weight refers to anything that does the same job but can be replaced with a lighter part...sprung weight would be any part of the car that you need like the frame or tranny...and would have to be entirely redesigned to shave weight.

99 percent of everyone would not redesign their frame to shave weight...so it stays put. You then begin to look elsewhere as where to cut weight...that refers to unsprung weight. An A/C compressor...is a great example of unsprung weight...you don't need it for the car to function.

 

I never ever heard "unsprung weight" defined that way. New one on me.

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=98

http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/unsprung_weight.html

 

Mambaviper you just failed sir. The correct definition is what has been linked. Unless you know exactly what you are speaking about dont post like that. Cheers

 

Gotta be an AE. No car guy is that clueless.

 

The weight reduction that is no longer there is what i was refering to as unsprung....by definition then I would be wrong...didn't realize you guys would loose your fuckin minds..cheers

 

Optima Redtop.

 

By removing the stereo/amp and then led's throughout and some hid's would then be curious as to what size battery and alternator would actually be required?, dropping down to a 70 amp alternator would free up some ponies and a physically smaller battery would also be lighter as well. I realize CCA is important but most of my starts are above 40 degrees anyway